The Fabric Guide
Everything you need to know about choosing the right fabric for your garments. From fiber content to weave structures, weight classifications to care instructions.
Natural Fibers
Understanding the raw materials that make up your fabric is fundamental. Each fiber has unique properties that determine how the fabric looks, feels, breathes, and ages.
Wool
From sheep (Merino, Shetland, etc.)Wool is the gold standard for dress trousers and tailored garments. Its natural crimp creates air pockets that provide insulation while allowing breathability. Wool fibers can absorb up to 30% of their weight in moisture without feeling wet, making it comfortable across a wide range of temperatures.
The quality of wool is often measured by its "Super" number (e.g., Super 100s, Super 150s), which indicates the fineness of the fiber. Higher numbers mean finer, softer fibers—but also more delicate fabrics that require careful handling.
Key Properties
Super Numbers Explained
- Super 80s-100s: Durable, everyday wear. Best value.
- Super 110s-120s: Sweet spot of softness and durability.
- Super 130s-150s: Luxury hand feel, requires more care.
- Super 160s+: Ultra-fine, special occasions only.
Best For
- Dress trousers and suits
- Year-round office wear
- Travel (wrinkle recovery)
- Investment pieces
Cotton
From the cotton plant (Gossypium)Cotton is the world's most widely used natural fiber, and for good reason. It's comfortable, breathable, easy to care for, and incredibly versatile. From crisp dress shirts to rugged workwear, cotton adapts to virtually any application.
The quality of cotton depends on fiber length (staple). Long-staple cottons like Egyptian, Pima, and Sea Island produce smoother, stronger, more lustrous fabrics. The best cotton fabrics have a soft hand feel that only improves with washing.
Key Properties
Cotton Grades
- Egyptian Cotton: Extra-long staple, luxurious feel.
- Pima/Supima: American long-staple, excellent quality.
- Sea Island: Rarest and finest, silky hand.
- Upland Cotton: Standard grade, good value.
Best For
- Chinos and casual trousers
- Summer wear
- Everyday shirts
- Easy-care requirements
Linen
From the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum)Linen is the oldest textile fiber known to humanity, prized for thousands of years for its exceptional coolness in hot weather. Linen fibers are hollow, allowing air to flow freely and wicking moisture away from the body faster than any other natural fiber.
The characteristic "slubs" and texture of linen are part of its charm. Yes, it wrinkles—dramatically—but those wrinkles are a badge of authenticity. A perfectly pressed linen garment looks unnatural. Embrace the relaxed aesthetic.
Key Properties
Linen Origins
- Irish Linen: Legendary quality, crisp hand.
- Belgian Linen: Fine and uniform.
- French Linen: Softer, more relaxed drape.
- Italian Linen: Often blended, versatile.
Best For
- Hot summer days
- Beach and resort wear
- Tropical climates
- Relaxed dress codes
Silk
From silkworm cocoons (Bombyx mori)Silk is nature's only continuous filament fiber, produced by silkworms to form their cocoons. Its triangular cross-section refracts light, creating silk's signature luster. Silk is remarkably strong for its weight and has natural temperature-regulating properties.
In trousers, silk is rarely used alone but frequently blended with wool to add luster, softness, and improved drape. A wool-silk blend (typically 85/15 or 70/30) creates a luxurious fabric that's more practical than pure silk.
Key Properties
Cashmere
From cashmere goats (undercoat)Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily raised in Mongolia, China, and Iran. Each goat produces only about 150 grams of usable fiber per year, explaining cashmere's premium price. The fibers are incredibly fine (14-19 microns) and provide exceptional warmth-to-weight ratio.
For trousers, cashmere is typically blended with wool to improve durability while adding unparalleled softness. A 10-20% cashmere blend significantly elevates the hand feel without the fragility of pure cashmere.
Key Properties
Weave Structures
The way threads interlace determines a fabric's texture, durability, and drape. Understanding weaves helps you choose the right fabric for your needs.
Plain Weave
Also known as: Tabby weave, Taffeta weave
The simplest and most common weave. Each weft thread passes alternately over and under each warp thread. Creates a strong, durable fabric with a flat, uniform appearance.
Twill Weave
Also known as: Diagonal weave
Creates a distinctive diagonal rib pattern. The weft thread passes over multiple warp threads before going under. Results in a softer, more drapey fabric that resists wrinkles better than plain weave.
Satin Weave
Also known as: Sateen (cotton version)
Weft threads "float" over multiple warp threads, creating a smooth, lustrous surface. The long floats catch light beautifully but make the fabric more prone to snagging.
Herringbone
Also known as: Broken twill, Chevron weave
A variation of twill where the diagonal direction reverses at regular intervals, creating a V-shaped pattern resembling fish bones. Adds visual interest while maintaining twill's excellent properties.
Hopsack / Basket Weave
Also known as: Panama weave, Matt weave
Groups of warp and weft threads are woven as one, creating a textured, breathable fabric with a distinctive checkerboard appearance. Excellent for summer suits.
Corduroy (Pile Weave)
Also known as: Cord, Manchester cloth
Features raised parallel ridges called "wales." The wale number indicates cords per inch—higher numbers mean finer cords. A pile weave where extra threads create the raised surface.
Fabric Weight Guide
Weight is measured in grams per square meter (GSM) or ounces per yard. It determines warmth, drape, and seasonal appropriateness.
Lightweight
Tropical wools, summer cottons, and linens. Ideal for hot climates and warm offices. Light, airy drape with less structure. Expect some transparency in lighter colors.
Common Fabrics
- Tropical worsted wool
- Lightweight linen
- Summer chino cotton
- Fresco / Hopsack wool
Medium Weight
The "Goldilocks zone" for most wardrobes. Works in air-conditioned offices year-round and across three to four seasons in temperate climates. Excellent drape with enough body to hold a crease.
Common Fabrics
- All-season worsted wool
- Standard chino twill
- Cavalry twill
- Medium-weight gabardine
Heavy Weight
Substantial fabrics with excellent structure and warmth. Ideal for cooler months and unheated environments. Holds a sharp crease beautifully and provides noticeable insulation.
Common Fabrics
- Flannel
- Heavy gabardine
- Moleskin
- Mid-weight corduroy
Winter Weight
Heavy-duty fabrics for cold weather. Thick, warm, and durable. May feel too warm indoors with central heating. Best for outdoor activities or particularly cold climates.
Common Fabrics
- Heavy flannel (400g+)
- Tweed
- Wide-wale corduroy
- Melton wool
Fabric Types: A Deep Dive
Beyond fiber content and weave, specific fabric types have distinct characteristics. Here's your comprehensive guide to the most common trouser fabrics.
Worsted Wool
The Gold StandardWorsted refers to both the type of yarn and the resulting fabric. Long wool fibers are combed parallel, then tightly spun to create a smooth, durable yarn. The resulting fabric has a crisp hand, fine texture, and excellent wrinkle recovery.
Characteristics
- Smooth, clean surface
- Crisp drape with body
- Excellent crease retention
- Year-round versatility
Formality
Weight Range
180g - 340g (tropical to heavy)
Care
Dry clean only. Brush after wearing. Steam to refresh.
Flannel
Winter ClassicFlannel is wool that has been brushed or "fulled" to raise a soft nap on the surface. This creates a fuzzy, cozy texture that's warmer than worsted of the same weight. Grey flannel trousers are a menswear essential.
Characteristics
- Soft, brushed surface
- Exceptional warmth
- Luxurious hand feel
- Softer drape than worsted
Formality
Weight Range
280g - 450g+ (medium to heavy)
Care
Dry clean sparingly. Brush gently. Store with cedar.
Gabardine
Tailoring EssentialA tightly woven twill fabric with a pronounced diagonal rib. Originally developed by Burberry for outerwear, gabardine is now a staple for dress trousers. It's durable, wrinkle-resistant, and takes a sharp crease beautifully.
Characteristics
- Tight twill weave
- Visible diagonal rib
- Excellent durability
- Superior crease retention
Formality
Weight Range
220g - 320g (light to heavy)
Care
Dry clean recommended. Spot clean when possible.
Chino Twill
Casual WorkhorseChino is a cotton twill fabric, typically in khaki or earth tones. The name comes from China, where the fabric was first used for military uniforms. Today, chinos are a casual wardrobe essential—versatile, comfortable, and easy to care for.
Characteristics
- Cotton twill weave
- Matte finish
- Improves with washing
- Comfortable and breathable
Formality
Weight Range
200g - 320g (light to heavy)
Care
Machine wash cold. Tumble dry low or hang dry.
Corduroy
Textured CharacterCorduroy features distinctive raised ridges called "wales." The wale count indicates ribs per inch—lower numbers mean wider ribs. Originally workwear, corduroy is now embraced for its warmth, durability, and distinctive texture.
Wale Guide
- Wide wale (6-8): Bold, casual
- Standard (11-14): Classic
- Pinwale (16-21): Refined, dressier
- Needlecord (21+): Almost smooth
Formality
Weight Range
280g - 400g (medium to heavy)
Care
Machine wash cold inside-out. Hang dry.
Linen
Summer EssentialPure linen is unmatched for hot weather. The hollow fibers allow exceptional airflow, and the fabric absorbs moisture quickly. Linen wrinkles easily—embrace it as part of the relaxed aesthetic rather than fighting it.
Characteristics
- Highly breathable
- Natural slubs and texture
- Gets softer with washing
- Wrinkles significantly
Formality
Weight Range
150g - 250g (light to medium)
Care
Dry clean or hand wash cold. Hang dry. Iron while damp.
Denim
The OriginalDenim is a sturdy cotton twill where the weft passes under two or more warp threads. Traditional denim uses indigo-dyed warp and white weft, creating the characteristic fading pattern as it wears. Selvedge denim is woven on narrow looms with self-finished edges.
Types
- Raw/Dry: Unwashed, will fade with wear
- Selvedge: Self-finished edge, narrow loom
- Stretch: 1-3% elastane added
- Washed: Pre-softened, various treatments
Weight (oz/yd²)
Lightweight: 8-10oz | Mid: 12-14oz | Heavy: 16oz+
Weight Range
270g - 450g+ (10oz - 16oz+)
Care
Wash sparingly. Cold water. Hang dry. Raw: wait 6+ months.
Moleskin
Country ClassicMoleskin is a heavy cotton fabric with a short, dense pile that's been sheared to create an incredibly soft, suede-like surface. Originally workwear, it's now beloved for country pursuits and casual elegance. Exceptionally warm and durable.
Characteristics
- Suede-like soft surface
- Excellent warmth
- Very durable
- Develops beautiful patina
Formality
Weight Range
320g - 450g (heavy)
Care
Machine wash cold inside-out. Hang dry.
Mill Directory
The world's finest fabrics come from mills with centuries of expertise. Here are the producers whose fabrics we're proud to offer.
🇮🇹 Italy
The Biella region in northern Italy is the heart of luxury wool production, with mills dating back centuries.
Vitale Barberis Canonico
Est. 1663The world's oldest woolen mill. Seventeen generations of expertise producing Super 110s-170s wools. Exceptional value at the luxury tier.
Loro Piana
Est. 1924The pinnacle of luxury. Pioneered the finest cashmere and vicuña. Their "Tasmanian" super wools set the standard for fine tailoring.
Reda
Est. 1865Innovative mill focused on sustainability. Carbon-neutral since 2019. Excellent quality-to-price ratio with consistent performance.
Caccioppoli
Est. 1920Neapolitan heritage with bold patterns and colors. Known for their distinctive designs and excellent lightweight summer fabrics.
Drago
Est. 1973Modern mill with exceptional quality control. Specialist in high-performance wools that combine luxury with practicality.
Ermenegildo Zegna
Est. 1910From fabric mill to global luxury brand. Their fabrics remain among the finest, particularly their cashmere and high-super wools.
🇬🇧 United Kingdom
British mills excel at heritage fabrics—tweeds, flannels, and corduroy—with centuries of tradition.
Abraham Moon & Sons
Est. 1837Yorkshire mill producing heritage tweeds and country cloths. Their fabrics epitomize British countryside style.
Brisbane Moss
Est. 1928The world's leading producer of fine corduroy and moleskin. Unmatched expertise in pile fabrics.
Holland & Sherry
Est. 1836London-based merchant with access to the finest fabrics worldwide. Extensive archive of classic and rare cloths.
Harris Tweed Authority
Est. 1909Certification body for authentic Harris Tweed—hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides. The real deal only.
🇮🇪 Ireland
Ireland is synonymous with the finest linen in the world.
Baird McNutt
Est. 1912The last remaining Irish linen mill. Every piece is woven in Northern Ireland. Unmatched quality and authenticity.
Spence Bryson
Est. 1891Belfast-based linen merchant with extensive range of weights and colors. From sheer handkerchief to heavy suiting.
🇯🇵 Japan
Japanese mills are renowned for their obsessive attention to detail and revival of heritage techniques.
Kurabo
Est. 1888One of Japan's oldest textile companies. Known for exceptional denim and innovative cotton fabrics.
Okayama Denim
Various millsThe Okayama region is Japan's denim capital, home to mills producing the world's finest selvedge denim.
Pattern Guide
From classic solids to bold plaids, understanding patterns helps you build a cohesive, versatile wardrobe.
Solid
The most versatile choice. Pairs with anything. Navy, grey, and khaki form the backbone of any trouser rotation.
All occasionsPinstripe
Thin, spaced stripes on a contrasting ground. Classic business pattern. Vertical lines create a lengthening effect.
Business formalChalk Stripe
Wider, softer stripes resembling chalk lines. Bolder than pinstripe but still refined. Popular in flannel.
Business to smart casualHerringbone
Broken zigzag pattern creating subtle texture. Adds visual interest without boldness. Works year-round.
All occasionsHoundstooth
Abstract four-pointed shapes. Ranges from subtle (small scale) to bold (large scale). Country heritage.
Smart casual to casualWindowpane
Large, open check pattern. Makes a statement. Best in subtle colors. Avoid with patterned jackets.
Smart casualGlen Check
Also called Prince of Wales. Complex check pattern. Sophisticated and classic. A tailoring staple.
Business to smart casualTartan / Plaid
Overlapping stripes in multiple colors. Bold statement. Best reserved for casual occasions.
CasualFabric Comparison
A quick reference for comparing key characteristics across different fabrics.
| Fabric | Breathability | Durability | Wrinkle Resistance | Formality | Seasons | Care |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool Worsted | High | All | Dry clean | |||
| Wool Flannel | High | F/W | Dry clean | |||
| Cotton Chino | Medium | Sp/Su/F | Machine wash | |||
| Linen | Med-High | Su | Dry clean pref. | |||
| Corduroy | Casual | F/W | Machine wash | |||
| Denim | Casual | All | Wash sparingly | |||
| Moleskin | Casual | F/W | Machine wash | |||
| Gabardine | High | All | Dry clean | |||
| Fresco | High | Su | Dry clean | |||
| Tweed | Country | F/W | Dry clean |
Care Guide
Proper care extends the life of your garments significantly. Here's how to maintain your investment.
Storage
- Hang properly: Use trouser hangers with clips at the cuffs, allowing the weight of the fabric to naturally release wrinkles.
- Rotate wear: Give trousers 24-48 hours between wears to let the fibers recover and moisture evaporate.
- Cedar blocks: Natural moth deterrent. Place in closet near wool garments.
- Avoid folding: Folding creates permanent creases in the wrong places.
- Breathable covers: Use fabric garment bags for long-term storage, never plastic.
Cleaning
- Wool: Dry clean sparingly (3-4 times/year max). Brush after each wear. Spot clean when possible.
- Cotton: Machine wash cold, inside-out. Hang dry or tumble low. Iron while slightly damp.
- Linen: Dry clean or hand wash cold. Hang dry. Iron while damp for crisp finish (or don't).
- Corduroy: Machine wash cold inside-out. Hang dry. Brush pile to restore texture.
- Denim: Wash rarely. When you must, cold water, inside-out, hang dry.
Pressing
- Steam over iron: A steamer is gentler than an iron and works well for most refreshes.
- Press cloth: Always use a press cloth between the iron and wool to prevent shine.
- Temperature: Wool: medium. Cotton/Linen: high. Silk: low. Synthetics: very low.
- Inside-out: Press from the inside when possible to protect the face of the fabric.
- Crease setting: For a sharp trouser crease, press from inside with damp cloth.
Stain Removal
- Act fast: The sooner you address a stain, the better your chances.
- Blot, don't rub: Rubbing spreads the stain and damages fibers.
- Test first: Test any cleaning solution on an inconspicuous area.
- Water-based stains: Club soda, then cold water, then professional.
- Oil-based stains: Cornstarch to absorb, then professional cleaning.
Glossary
Key terms you'll encounter when shopping for fabrics.
A-F
- Basketweave
- Weave pattern where groups of warp and weft threads interlace, creating a textured, breathable fabric.
- Birdseye
- Small diamond pattern with a dot in the center, resembling a bird's eye. Common in worsted suiting.
- Calendering
- Finishing process that passes fabric through heated rollers to create a smooth, lustrous surface.
- Carding
- Process of aligning and cleaning fibers before spinning. Carded wool is softer but less refined than worsted.
- Drape
- How a fabric hangs and falls. Good drape means the fabric flows naturally without bunching.
- End-on-end
- Weaving technique alternating colored and white threads, creating a subtle textured appearance.
- Finishing
- Post-weaving treatments that affect the fabric's appearance and hand feel.
- Fulling
- Process of shrinking and matting wool fibers to create a denser fabric (as in flannel).
G-M
- GSM
- Grams per square meter. Standard measurement of fabric weight.
- Hand
- How a fabric feels when touched. "Good hand" means pleasant, quality texture.
- Hopsack
- Open, breathable weave perfect for summer suits. Also called "Fresco" in finer versions.
- Luster
- The shine or sheen of a fabric. Higher quality wools often have more natural luster.
- Mercerization
- Treatment for cotton that increases luster, strength, and dye affinity.
- Micron
- Unit measuring fiber diameter. Finer (lower) microns mean softer wool.
- Milling
- Process of finishing wool to create a softer, fuller fabric.
N-S
- Nap
- Raised, fuzzy surface on fabrics like flannel or moleskin. Created by brushing.
- Pick
- Single pass of the weft thread through the warp. Picks per inch indicates weave density.
- Ply
- Number of yarns twisted together. 2-ply yarn is stronger than single-ply.
- Selvedge
- Self-finished edge of fabric that prevents unraveling. Sign of quality in denim.
- Staple
- Length of individual fibers. Longer staple = higher quality.
- Super number
- Indicates wool fiber fineness. Super 100s = 18.5 microns. Higher = finer.
T-Z
- Thread count
- Number of threads per square inch. Higher isn't always better—balance matters.
- Wale
- Raised rib in corduroy. Wale count = ribs per inch. Higher = finer ribs.
- Warp
- Vertical threads in weaving that run lengthwise on the loom.
- Weft
- Horizontal threads that interlace with the warp.
- Worsted
- Wool from long, combed fibers creating smooth, durable yarn. The gold standard for tailoring.
- Yarn-dyed
- Threads dyed before weaving, creating deeper, more durable color than piece-dyeing.
Ready to feel the difference?
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Request Free SwatchesFrequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between worsted and woolen wool?
Worsted wool uses long, combed fibers spun into smooth, strong yarn—resulting in crisp, durable fabrics ideal for dress trousers. Woolen fabrics use shorter, carded fibers for a softer, loftier feel—think flannel, tweed, and knits. Worsted is more formal; woolen is warmer and more textured.
What does "Super 120s" actually mean?
The Super number indicates the maximum fineness of wool fibers used, measured in microns. Super 100s = 18.5 microns; each Super number above represents finer fibers. Higher isn't always better: Super 110s-120s offers the best balance of softness and durability for daily wear. Super 150s+ is luxuriously soft but more delicate.
How do I choose between cotton and wool trousers?
Wool drapes better, wrinkles less, and is appropriate for formal settings. Cotton is easier to care for, more affordable, and better suited for casual environments. For versatility in business settings, wool wins. For casual comfort and easy care, cotton is ideal. When in doubt, invest in quality wool—it's more versatile.
Will linen wrinkle immediately?
Yes, and that's okay. Linen wrinkles are part of its relaxed, natural character. Fighting the wrinkles is futile—embrace them. If you absolutely cannot abide wrinkles, consider a linen-cotton or linen-wool blend, which wrinkle less. But pure linen's breathability is unmatched for hot weather.
What fabric weight should I choose?
For maximum versatility, choose medium weight (240-280g). It works year-round in air-conditioned environments and across three seasons in temperate climates. If you live somewhere hot, go lighter (180-220g). For cold winters, add heavy weights (300g+) to your rotation.
Is expensive fabric worth it?
Generally, yes—to a point. Premium fabrics from renowned mills like VBC or Loro Piana have better hand feel, drape, and durability. The sweet spot is usually mid-to-high tier: you get 90% of the quality at 50% of the ultra-luxury price. Beyond Super 150s, you're paying for softness that sacrifices durability.
How many swatches can I order?
We'll ship up to 5 swatches for free, anywhere in the world. If you need more to make your decision, just ask—we're happy to help you find the perfect fabric. Swatches ship within 1-2 business days.